Helsinki is rated as one of the top places to live. I can understand some of the attractions: a city with wide open spaces, excellent public transport and facilities, multi cultural and multi-lingual and a great social services infrastructure. But there are also detractions - it is one of the most expensive places I have visited, it has really crappy weather in winter and there is a lack of sunlight (also in winter). What I find interesting is aside from the Australian cities; all the cities that are featured regularly in these lists are from "cold" regions - Zurich, Toronto, Stockholm etc. I am not sure what makes these places so attractive even after going to a number of these cities.
That said, Helsinki is a fairly small city; with a busy downtown and lots of suburbia. The older areas have some stunning architecture, but most are not outlandish. I did a lot of walkabout today, and was disappointed that most places, museums, churches, theatres and even some shops and restaurants were closed.
Click on photos for a small enlargement.
About Me
- alapan
- I ramble about a number of things - but travel experiences, movies and music feature prominently. See my label cloud for a better idea. All comnments and opinions on this blog are my own, and do not in any way reflect the opinions/position of my employer (past/current/future).
12 March 2012
Temppeliaukio Church
On this trip, I seem to have visited a lot of churches. In Europe at least they are great due to the architecture and their art collections (especially old cathedrals). This church is unique for its architecture - it is carved in to take rocky hill close to downtown Helsinki. It looks awesome, and apparently features regular concerts that take advantage of the acoustics.
Click on photos for a small enlargement.
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Click on photos for a small enlargement.
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An immigrant's tale
I was drawn to Ibrahim's stall at the market, because the items looked familiar and very different to everyone else. He was selling sculptures made from iron, commonly seen in southern Africa but not many other places.
Although I didn't buy anything, I ended up chatting to him for a while. When he found out that I was from South Adria, he state without prompting that he got inspiration from similar crafts in Zimbabwe and South Africa, and that he was himself from Egypt.
He decided to leave Egypt about 20 years ago, and applied for visitors visas to a number of countries - Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Switzerland, Sweden, Finland and Netherlands. All except Finland approved.
When he eventually got here, he had three weeks. Since he couldn't get a job, his strategy was the same as many others in his position, find a wife and get residency/citizenship. He married an old woman, an has been in Finland ever since, and working with metal sculptures for a number of years.
He has evidently had quite a lot of success in the past; he showed me numerous newspaper clippings featuring him with his sculptures, awards etc. But times aren't good - he claims that the Finnish economy is effectively in recession, and his artwork is more often bought by the rich and not normal tourists. The weather has also meant that there aren't that many tourists to sell to. Finally, with the coat of metal and coal going up, helped with additional taxes, his costs are also going up; negatively impacting his sales.
His tale was not different to another one in San Francisco. Manuel, from Venezuela, decided to leave for the US just as the politics in Venezuela wee changing. Like Ibrahim, he entered on a tourist visa (except he had an easier time due to his middle class background and friends already in the US); and once he got there got married to get his papers sorted. He subsequently got divorced, once the paperwork was completed. Manuel's comment was, that this process is so easy, he finds it difficult to understand why anyone would come in as an illegal; though did concede his background helped.
Both Manuel and Ibrahim have no intention of leaving. They consider themselves American and Finnish respectively; speak the languages, know the culture and fit in.
Ibrahim commented very positively on South Africa, that it is seen as the beacon of Africa; the combination of Africa and the west. He was surprised to hear that we have high employment; he was under the impression that jobs were plentiful! But one thing that I find interesting as a difference is how well immigrants integrate in certain countries; from the language to the culture. Maybe this is based on the skill type (most immigrants I have encountered are after all employed in IT or service industries). In SA this does not seem to happen well; especially with regards to language. Or perhaps it has something to do with the tightening up of immigration laws; citizenship in SA is not dependent on any language or cultural test (as in the case of Germany for example).
That said it is not necessarily bad; SA position allows for very quick processing and it makes it far more attractive as a means to attract skills. I know off many South Africans who want to leave, but there are so many from various parts of the world (not only from Africa) who want to come and stay. I am all for open immigration policies across the world, but having a combination of unequal policies, in my opinion, helps to exaggerate the problem.
Ibrahim's website: http://seppaibrahim.fi/.
Although I didn't buy anything, I ended up chatting to him for a while. When he found out that I was from South Adria, he state without prompting that he got inspiration from similar crafts in Zimbabwe and South Africa, and that he was himself from Egypt.
He decided to leave Egypt about 20 years ago, and applied for visitors visas to a number of countries - Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Switzerland, Sweden, Finland and Netherlands. All except Finland approved.
When he eventually got here, he had three weeks. Since he couldn't get a job, his strategy was the same as many others in his position, find a wife and get residency/citizenship. He married an old woman, an has been in Finland ever since, and working with metal sculptures for a number of years.
He has evidently had quite a lot of success in the past; he showed me numerous newspaper clippings featuring him with his sculptures, awards etc. But times aren't good - he claims that the Finnish economy is effectively in recession, and his artwork is more often bought by the rich and not normal tourists. The weather has also meant that there aren't that many tourists to sell to. Finally, with the coat of metal and coal going up, helped with additional taxes, his costs are also going up; negatively impacting his sales.
His tale was not different to another one in San Francisco. Manuel, from Venezuela, decided to leave for the US just as the politics in Venezuela wee changing. Like Ibrahim, he entered on a tourist visa (except he had an easier time due to his middle class background and friends already in the US); and once he got there got married to get his papers sorted. He subsequently got divorced, once the paperwork was completed. Manuel's comment was, that this process is so easy, he finds it difficult to understand why anyone would come in as an illegal; though did concede his background helped.
Both Manuel and Ibrahim have no intention of leaving. They consider themselves American and Finnish respectively; speak the languages, know the culture and fit in.
Ibrahim commented very positively on South Africa, that it is seen as the beacon of Africa; the combination of Africa and the west. He was surprised to hear that we have high employment; he was under the impression that jobs were plentiful! But one thing that I find interesting as a difference is how well immigrants integrate in certain countries; from the language to the culture. Maybe this is based on the skill type (most immigrants I have encountered are after all employed in IT or service industries). In SA this does not seem to happen well; especially with regards to language. Or perhaps it has something to do with the tightening up of immigration laws; citizenship in SA is not dependent on any language or cultural test (as in the case of Germany for example).
That said it is not necessarily bad; SA position allows for very quick processing and it makes it far more attractive as a means to attract skills. I know off many South Africans who want to leave, but there are so many from various parts of the world (not only from Africa) who want to come and stay. I am all for open immigration policies across the world, but having a combination of unequal policies, in my opinion, helps to exaggerate the problem.
Ibrahim's website: http://seppaibrahim.fi/.
Labels:
finland,
phlog,
rambling,
San Francisco,
south africa,
USA
11 March 2012
Helsinki to Tallinn (and back)
From Helsinki, there are a number of services; but in winter it seems that Tallink Shuttle is the most convenient. There is a discount for a same day return trip of approximately 15%, which led to a return price of 48 Euros.
On the Helsinki side, the checkin closes 20 minutes before departure. It was a good thing; with a late night yesterday, I made it to the terminal at 07:05 for a 07:30 departure, and I could still buy tickets. The Tallinn side has a 30 minute checkin deadline, so it's useful to note the difference.
There is still a lot of ice in the water by Helsinki (about 45 minutes of the 2 hour journey); but the views in the early morning were stunning. It was amazing however to see how much ice had melted away in the course of a few hours on the return trip, especially around Helsinki harbour. Other than a few birds, I didn't spot any wildlife but those probably keep clear of the ships.
The ferry's sitting arrangements were definitely not what I was expecting. There are no designated seating areas, but rather a set of lounges, usually next to restaurants or shops (no need to buy anything). I suppose that's not a bad idea in generating more revenue! I decided to have a breakfast buffet, which at 11 euros is very cheap for Helsinki, though it was not the most comfortable seats. Apart from the restaurants and shops, the ferry also has free WiFi and other facilities like kids playrooms etc.
While Tallinn's old town is the welcoming sight, Helsinki is all industry and factories; not very pretty. There are a few snowed in islands that are passed by, but gliding through the ice has its own charm. The ferry ride is incredible smooth, though the seas were also quite smooth.
On the Helsinki side, the checkin closes 20 minutes before departure. It was a good thing; with a late night yesterday, I made it to the terminal at 07:05 for a 07:30 departure, and I could still buy tickets. The Tallinn side has a 30 minute checkin deadline, so it's useful to note the difference.
There is still a lot of ice in the water by Helsinki (about 45 minutes of the 2 hour journey); but the views in the early morning were stunning. It was amazing however to see how much ice had melted away in the course of a few hours on the return trip, especially around Helsinki harbour. Other than a few birds, I didn't spot any wildlife but those probably keep clear of the ships.
The ferry's sitting arrangements were definitely not what I was expecting. There are no designated seating areas, but rather a set of lounges, usually next to restaurants or shops (no need to buy anything). I suppose that's not a bad idea in generating more revenue! I decided to have a breakfast buffet, which at 11 euros is very cheap for Helsinki, though it was not the most comfortable seats. Apart from the restaurants and shops, the ferry also has free WiFi and other facilities like kids playrooms etc.
While Tallinn's old town is the welcoming sight, Helsinki is all industry and factories; not very pretty. There are a few snowed in islands that are passed by, but gliding through the ice has its own charm. The ferry ride is incredible smooth, though the seas were also quite smooth.
Tallinn
I first heard of Estonia when I started doing research relating to digital identity schemes (in about 2003); and Estonia was at the forefront of implementing such schemes at scale. In fact, it is probably the first country to have mass migrated to the digital age, holistically. This is also supported how the entire coty seems to be bathed in (mostly free) wi-fi hotspots. I have been keen to visit the capital Tallinn for a while; especially when I discovered regular ferry routes from both Stockholm and Helsinki; and heard good things from a friend who was based there.
The main tourist attraction is the old town, parts of it dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. It is recognized as a world heritage site and considerable effort has gone in to restoration of the buildings. It's not to say that there are no modern buildings or that there are no dilapidated building; but they are the exception while people still live here, the area is filled with restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.
Tallinn is very tourist friendly; at least in the old town and from the port. There are regular maps and directions and there is quite a bit of information posted around the old town. I found those very fascinating as the history of Estonia is effective recounted; through the various wars and eras. Interestingly information is displayed in only Estonian and English despite the sizable legacy of Russian influence (and occupation) or the sizable trade relations with Finland and Sweden.
I thought I would have more time; but in the end I only managed to walk through the old town and go up the tower wall; although I did see a bit of the churches. I did not go inside the museums nor did I get round to seeing things outside the old town. The Russian orthodox churches are particularly beautiful.
Tallinn is quite a bit cheaper than Finland and Sweden, and perhaps in future itineraries (if there are any) it would be better to stay in Tallinn and do day visits to Helsinki instead of the other way around.
The main tourist attraction is the old town, parts of it dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. It is recognized as a world heritage site and considerable effort has gone in to restoration of the buildings. It's not to say that there are no modern buildings or that there are no dilapidated building; but they are the exception while people still live here, the area is filled with restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops.
Tallinn is very tourist friendly; at least in the old town and from the port. There are regular maps and directions and there is quite a bit of information posted around the old town. I found those very fascinating as the history of Estonia is effective recounted; through the various wars and eras. Interestingly information is displayed in only Estonian and English despite the sizable legacy of Russian influence (and occupation) or the sizable trade relations with Finland and Sweden.
I thought I would have more time; but in the end I only managed to walk through the old town and go up the tower wall; although I did see a bit of the churches. I did not go inside the museums nor did I get round to seeing things outside the old town. The Russian orthodox churches are particularly beautiful.
Tallinn is quite a bit cheaper than Finland and Sweden, and perhaps in future itineraries (if there are any) it would be better to stay in Tallinn and do day visits to Helsinki instead of the other way around.
Nightwish: Imaginaerum
The main motivation to route my trip to the US via Europe was to attend one of Nightwish's Imaginaerum concerts in Finland. Ironically, the tickets to this concert, bought legally and ahead of time, ended up being inferior to that of the Rammstein concert (being seating tickets instead of standing tickets).
Quality of the photos are pretty poor given the distance.
Posionblack
Another Finnish gothic metal band opened for Nightwish. While not the same caliber as Apocalyptica, they were quite an interesting band. They had a symphonic sound, with some great music scores. I did not particularly like the vocalist; don't think he has the range or the quality to really do justice to the songs. Of the lyrics I did manage to get (all the songs were in English), they did sound interesting; but the lead singer's voice was quite distorted. I would be quite keen to hear more of their studio albums; they do hold some promise.
Nightwish
The recent Imaginaerum album is quite complex, and I was looking forward to seeing how it would translate from a film/symphonic setting to a live show. While the band started with the same track as the album, I was pleasantly surprised how they managed to incorporate some of their older tracks (even some pre Anette songs like "Wish I had an angel") into the flow.
Imaginaerum is supposed to be a loosely coupled set of stories, and thus this made complete sense. There was a small break in flow by concluding the show with the first single "Storytime", but then the show does have to end off with a bang, does it not? The neat idea of this flow however is that it does allow for greater variety in how other Nightwish songs are incorporated into the show.
It was also great to hear the ulliean pipes (similar to bagpipes) and accompanying set of Celtic instruments played live by Troy Donockley. He has become almost another member of the band given the number of songs he participates in!
It was a very enjoyable concert, and the detour was certainly worth it!
Quality of the photos are pretty poor given the distance.
Posionblack
Another Finnish gothic metal band opened for Nightwish. While not the same caliber as Apocalyptica, they were quite an interesting band. They had a symphonic sound, with some great music scores. I did not particularly like the vocalist; don't think he has the range or the quality to really do justice to the songs. Of the lyrics I did manage to get (all the songs were in English), they did sound interesting; but the lead singer's voice was quite distorted. I would be quite keen to hear more of their studio albums; they do hold some promise.
Nightwish
The recent Imaginaerum album is quite complex, and I was looking forward to seeing how it would translate from a film/symphonic setting to a live show. While the band started with the same track as the album, I was pleasantly surprised how they managed to incorporate some of their older tracks (even some pre Anette songs like "Wish I had an angel") into the flow.
Imaginaerum is supposed to be a loosely coupled set of stories, and thus this made complete sense. There was a small break in flow by concluding the show with the first single "Storytime", but then the show does have to end off with a bang, does it not? The neat idea of this flow however is that it does allow for greater variety in how other Nightwish songs are incorporated into the show.
It was also great to hear the ulliean pipes (similar to bagpipes) and accompanying set of Celtic instruments played live by Troy Donockley. He has become almost another member of the band given the number of songs he participates in!
It was a very enjoyable concert, and the detour was certainly worth it!
10 March 2012
Nepalese Restaurants
There are lots of Nepalese restaurants in Helsinki, and I am surprised I didn't see them last time round (especially as two of them are next to the hotel I stayed at last time). I went to Mt Everest, which was closest to me, and I would highly recommend it if you are in Helsinki.
The food itself is not very different to North Indian food I have had before; though I am not sure what I was expecting to be different! The specific dish wasn't hot but did have a great combination of spices and tasted really good. Also on the plus side, the meals included both naan and rice, something most Indian restaurants I have been to, charge extra for.
Spiced Nepali Coffee was not as rich as I had been told by some, but definitely a different (quite sweet, with different spices, I think I tasted cinnamon and nutmeg) to traditional coffee.
The food itself is not very different to North Indian food I have had before; though I am not sure what I was expecting to be different! The specific dish wasn't hot but did have a great combination of spices and tasted really good. Also on the plus side, the meals included both naan and rice, something most Indian restaurants I have been to, charge extra for.
Spiced Nepali Coffee was not as rich as I had been told by some, but definitely a different (quite sweet, with different spices, I think I tasted cinnamon and nutmeg) to traditional coffee.
Hints of Spring
With a slightly warmer weather, the snow and ice has started to thaw. In a combination of what seems to be poor drainage and the blocking of flow (due to the remaining ice/snow) the streets and pavements have become quite muddy and slippery. I had brought my hiking boots specifically anticipating this, but even then I have needed to be careful while walking, especially on an incline. I am not sure whether this warmer spell will last (the evening temperatures are still forecast to be negative, with positive day temperatures); but there is still a lot of snow to be thawed out!
Sibelius Monument
Dedicated to the famous Finnish composer Jean Sibelius, the sculpture resembles organ pipes of various lengths, and the pipes themselves are quite ornate. You can read more on the competition and the controversies around the sculpture on the sculptor's website. Although not in the city centre, it is quite easy to get to (bus 24).
Click on photos for a slight enlargement.
Frozen Waters
It isn't that cold today (the temperature is actually above freezing); but it is not warm enough. These are pictures of a canal and one of the port areas. The port is open, and one of the ships in the photos will be setting sail in about 3 hours
09 March 2012
Snow
So far, I had seen a bit of snow flying into Munich 2 weeks ago, but nothing on the way back on Wednesday.
Helsinki is covered with snow, stacks of it everywhere. Roads are clear though, and the temperature is a lot warmer than the past few weeks (well it is 0 degrees Celsius)
Helsinki is covered with snow, stacks of it everywhere. Roads are clear though, and the temperature is a lot warmer than the past few weeks (well it is 0 degrees Celsius)
Rammstein: Made in Germany
The reason I came to Antwerp was to see Rammstein. It was a late decision, leading to a bit of a complicated itinerary (1 additional flight, 3 additional trains) and some expensive (i.e. bought from scalpers) tickets. I did get standing tickets (there is no golden circle, just standing and sitting; the standing is in the centre of the hall) and interestingly there is no difference in the price either.
A quick note on the venue logistics; getting in and out was a mess, with only a few entrances open. Besides that it was well organized especially with the seamless public transport links after the concert. Photos are taken mostly from a distance, so may be a bit blurry ... clicking will enlarge them slightly.
Deathstars
I am surprised that there hasn't been an older band that has used this name. They are a Swedish goth/industrial metal band, though their songs were in English. Their music sounded great, though their lyrics (which i could decipher) weren't that impressive. But then, I think most bands just treat voice and lyrics as a backing sound track, so I suppose it doesn't really matter. They were a great warmup to Rammstein.
Rammstein
A great performance is made of different factors - the music, the lyrics, the show, the lighting to name a few. Rammstein embodied all of these last night; starting with a spectacular entrance. The main stage was pretty standard, though a number of industrial effects (such as huge fans) would come in as the show progressed. There were no video screens, strange for such a large venue. In front of the sound deck, was a small cordoned off area( which I assumed was for fireworks) and this is where I stood.
As the show started a bridge dropped from the ceiling connecting the main stage with the small cordoned off area. It looked and sounded exactly like spaceship landing in sci-fi movies; and the band paraded through the crowd onto the smaller stage, before crossing the bridge. They would return later in the show to perform two songs, most notably Bück Dich; which takes their shows into the realm of performance art like no other band.Being a "best of" show, all the hits were played (including my personal favorite Engel, which was not played in the SA show); accompanied by some spectacular fireworks. As with the South African show, the band didn't speak much with the crowd (no "we love you" or other chit chat) but there seemed to be a lot more engagement with the crowd; and the show was absolutely spectacular. At over 2 hours, it was also a long set for such a high energy performance.
Antwerp
The wider city is a business city, focused around the port and the diamond trade. The diamond district is neither flashy (except the glitter of jewelry off course) nor pretty - it seems purely functional.
The old town however is very pretty, with a lot of grand architecture, small alleys and off course cobbled streets. Most of the old buildings have been adapted for modern commerce and usage, with seemingly minimal changes. Even if you discount the churches, there are a lot of buildings to see in a stroll around the old town.
Getting around is easy (excellent public transport, and it is small enough to explore by walking around), people are friendly and most seem to speak English. It is the Flemish part of Belgium, so my little Afrikaans helped with reading text in Dutch, though understanding either Flemish or Dutch was a lot more difficult.
Click on photos for a small enlargement.
The old town however is very pretty, with a lot of grand architecture, small alleys and off course cobbled streets. Most of the old buildings have been adapted for modern commerce and usage, with seemingly minimal changes. Even if you discount the churches, there are a lot of buildings to see in a stroll around the old town.
Getting around is easy (excellent public transport, and it is small enough to explore by walking around), people are friendly and most seem to speak English. It is the Flemish part of Belgium, so my little Afrikaans helped with reading text in Dutch, though understanding either Flemish or Dutch was a lot more difficult.
Click on photos for a small enlargement.
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