Christmas Markets

Last year Hans-Peter was rather despondent around Christmas, and remarked that Christmas was just not the same in South Africa. I did not really understand, until I went to the famous Nuremberg and Munich Christmas markets. Christmas, in fact seems to be in a completely different spirit than that of South Africa, and it is not a matter of rampant consumerism either.

Firstly, in many parts of Europe, Christmas gifts are actually not exchanged during Christmas but during St Nicholas day around 5/6 December. Yes, Santa has his own day!

But the main difference in my opinion is really the actual decorations and spirit. It is not just a matter of Gluhwein and snow - Christmas decorations in Germany did not feature fake trees and an assortment of fake presents and lights. Instead, most decorations almost tended to tell a story of sorts, and decorations went beyond just lights and tinsel. There is even a town in Germany (Rothenburg ob der Tauber) dedicated to the production of Christmas decorations, and the craftsmanship in some of the decorations (such as nutcrackers) is particularly impressive.

Interestingly, Christmas markets can only operate from a certain date, and it seems that tradition has somewhat controlled rampant consumerism. In a way, I think I finally get what the fuss is all about ...

Cycling and Ice Skating

Yesterday (Sunday) a friend from work and I decided to go to the Ice Rink in Nuremberg. Well it was his idea actually, and I sort of tagged along ... my one and only previous encounter with a Ice Rink was hardly pleasant ... New York Central Park, about 20 US dollars and not much fun.

My friend, being Dutch, suggested that we cycle to the Ice Rink if the weather was good. After all, it was only 20 odd KM away, and he had recently acquired a GPS system so we should not get lost!

Cycling in Germany is interesting - and certainly more pleasurable than in South Africa. Since so many people cycle, the drivers have more respect for cyclists. Furthermore, most roads have dedicated cycle lanes, making it a lot safer and easier. Given that the areas around Nuremberg and Erlangen is generally flat, cycling is actually quite easy going. So apart from a few mishaps on the way back at night (when my friend, somehow managed to stray off the cycle track one or two times into the garden path next to it), it was generally an easy going experience.

As for the skating, it was certainly a better experience than my last time. I could actually walk around on skates on the ice - but not really skate. Oh well, some other time probably.

And after 47 Km of cycling, a KM or so of walking and the little skating, I was dead tired, and managed to fall asleep quite early too! I miss cycling ...

More Travel Notes

I had flown United before, on a short return trip between JFK and Washington DC in 2003. On my return flight from Washington DC, the glory of code shares meant that I was returning on an United flight instead of a Lufthansa flight. The airport was quite empty, which was rather surprising, but I am not going to complain about the lack of queues, and even security clearance was interesting.

United has a really horrible seat configuration in Economy class: 2-5-2 on a Boeing 777, rather than the more rational 3-3-3 seating plan. And, I had the middle seat in the middle row! But there were two things in my favour - firstly, I was somehow upgraded to Economy Plus ... I did not ask questions, nor did I seek to find an aisle seat after that bit of news. Secondly, it seems my row only had four seats in the middle, so I did not have to leap across two people to get to my seat! Economy plus was basically an economy seat with extra leg room - nothing too special, except I have to confess it is the first time I have been in an aeroplane economy seat that had more legroom than a train seat (and for that matter some back seats in cars). United also had seatback TV screens (something still missing from Lufthansa planes) and XM satelite radio, which was cool. The food wasn't great, but then only a few airlines have great airline food.

My return to Nuremberg created its own logistical puzzle. I had a tele-interview at 3pm. However due to a slight delay in baggage arrival, I missed the first connection of my optimal route back home, and had to settle for the less optimal route (bus) which then got stuck in traffic. However, I still managed to get the connecting bus, and managed to get home less than 5 minutes before the phone rang ... good enough to take off all the layers required to walk outside!

Oh, and the interview went well, and was invited to a full interview :)

Human Rights

Nuremberg is also known for its role in shaping the declaration of human rights, and it is a fitting place too. The scene of the Nuremberg trials, the first International Trial for war crimes. The court room for the trial, Room 600, is still used, and is accessible via a guided tour during the weekend. The tour includes a detailed presentation on the proceedings of the trial and the various issues involved.



In the old town, a street is dedicated as the Way of Human Rights, where the articles of the declaration of human rights are engraved in different languages, representing the various oppressed nations (an oak tree represents all the other cultures not explicitly listed). But looking at human civilisation, has there ever been a culture that has not been oppressed at one time in their history by another culture?

Going back to the Nuremberg Trial, What I found interesting were the arguments used by the chief prosecutor (who was from the US) on why the trial was important for the future of mankind. He presented arguments on why the world needs prevent future genocides, and on the treatment of prisoners, against slavery etc. The idea of a humane war is downright stupid in my opinion, but what is clear in many respects is that the world has not really learnt from WW 2, or what the Nuremberg Trial was supposed to teach the world. Not only have we allowed genocide to happen again, and carry on happening and wars haven't stopped. In fact, it can be argued that, in modern wars, more civilians die than actual soldiers.

Time and time again, human rights are raised as something to be cherished. But deep down, do we really care?

The Nazi Rally Grounds

Nazi Germany is famous for its parades and rallies, unrivalled in the modern world, even by North Korea, and possibly unrivalled even if we go back to the past. While rallies took place all over Germany, but it was at Nuremberg that the biggest rallies took place. And, at Nuremberg, the Nazi government built purposeful rally grounds, that were truly impressive in scale and grandeur. It was after all the official city for Nazi rallies from 1933.

I will give details of individual areas of the grounds in the remainder of the post, but first an observation. In my Lonely Planet guidebook, in the information booths around the ground and in the documentation centre - a museum exploring the history of the grounds - the rally grounds are given as proof of the Nazi's Megalomania. Maybe. But great buildings from our past such as the Egyptian pyramids; also built with slave labour (large parts of the Nazi economy was driven by concentration camp prisoners); or the Roman Colosseum - the scene of bloody battles all for entertainment; or the pyramids of the Mayans which were often the scene of human sacrifices; are hardly treated in the same manner. This does not mean that I am condoning Nazism, but will it mean that in 2000 years time we will be voting the Zeppelin fields as one of the wonders of the 2nd Millennium?


Designed to reassemble to Colosseum, and to hold 50 000 people, the Congress Hall was never completed. It was still usable though.


Inside the Congress Hall.


The Rally grounds were built on former recreation grounds, and after the war, the area was largely turned back into a recreation area.


Many memorials or museums related to the Nazi years have a high degree of symbolism. The Documentation centre for example, built in a part of the Congress Hall has a glass corridor running diagonally through it, until the centre of the hall: symbolising a stake through the building. The museum has one of the best accounts of the rise and fall of Nazism I have seen in Germany.


The Great Road, used to 2 Km long, 60 m wide, running through the middle of the rally grounds. Now, largely a parking lot.


This lake, was once the building site of the German Stadium; never completed (actually, never really got started, as the war started close to the start of construction). It was designed to hold 400 000 people!!!


The lake is toxic ... ironic I think.



The Luitpold Arena, first a park dedicated to the fallen soldiers of WW 1, then the parade grounds for the SS and then back to a park. The original memorial is being refurbished, but some remnants of the parade grounds still exist.




The Zeppelin Field - the only fully completed part of rally grounds, and possibly the most impressive. On the one side, a massive grandstand for the dignitaries and the podium for Hitler to deliver his speech. On the other part, an area of about 12 football (soccer) fields and the surrounding stands to hold the common people attending the rally. What was impressive is what didn't survive - the stadium of light. The entire area was surrounded by spotlights that created a light pillar around the stadium, and together with massive fire bowls, it must have been a spectacular sight.


View from the podium

Nuremberg Altdstadt

At the end of WW 2, Nuremberg was more or less flattened. When it was rebuilt, unlike some cities which chose to built anew, the core centre of old Nuremberg was rebuilt like it used to be, mostly from the original stone. And Nuremberg is an old city - about a 1000 years old, and used to be the capital of the Holy Roman Empire.





The old town centre, is the centre of Nuremberg, surrounded by a wall and a moat (although the moat has no water and serves as gardens/walking paths. Inside the Altstadt, one very much gets the idea of what what old European cities must have been like, although, every now and then there is a new building (almost inevitably built of glass). With a river, largely pedestrian traffic (many roads are closed to cars), numerous cafes and shops, it sometimes even feels a bit detached from the real world.




It is a beautiful area, and in many respects almost unlike a city. People still live here, and most businesses are service businesses; but one almost gets the feeling that it is an area intended for relaxation.


Once the imperial stables, at the north end of the city, now serves as a youth hostel. Still, the guests can claim they lived in a castle ...


View from one of the castle gardens. The castle was off course built on the highest ground (in Old Nuremberg at least).


The castle (from the entrance side)


Old restored houses (near the castle)



The Schöner Brunnen, quite literally the beautiful fountain, on the market square. The market square holds the famous Christmas market, which should start the week before I leave. The golden ring apparently grants wishes if you turn it three times.


The Tugendbrunnen (Fountain of virtues). Apparently was not as controversial as ...



Ehekarussell Brunnen (Marriage Roundabout), which features 6 interpretations of marriage (first love, quarrel, death do us part etc). Quite impressive really.


Until sometime in the 19th centruy, this house over the river served as the executioner's home. There is a small museum and some interesting details on crime and punishment. The building, under refurbishment, is an old depot, now a student dorm. In fact students at the Nuremberg campus of the Erlangen-Nuremberg university have some really funky dorms.


It is quite impressive how the old and the new has been integrated. Nuremberg has a relatively small underground rail network, and there is only station actually inside the Altdtstadt. This station is one of the two on the edge, and is integrated as part of the "moat".

The DB Museum

Deutsche Bahn, the German national rail operator, have their museum, one of the oldest in Germany, in Nuremberg. For the most part it is a collection of impressive engines tracking the history of rail travel (mostly in Germany).


The old royal carriages ... difficult to get the photos right (although to be honest, I didn't try very hard)


The train that started off the fast rail travel in Europe



The Nazis were in the forefront of both the advances in railway technology and the abuse of rail travel. The museum has a small, but significant display about it; although to be honest, it does not compare to the Technology Museum in Berlin.


Some interesting aspects of railways are on display.



A model of a machine designed to lay/service tracks. It is quite an impressive machine really.


There is also a small museum on communication. The BMW for the postmen ...





The highlight of the museum - a really impressive model railway system. Apparently covers 500m worth of tracks, and has numerous trains. And a really impressive control station too.