Neue Pinakotek

The Neue Punakotek was originally built by Bavarian King Ludwig I in 1853; but was destroyed in WW2. The current museum building has a great layout for viewing; allowing the visitor to slowly spiral through the building, viewing the works chronologically in 22 main rooms. Some of the original collection was damaged or perished in WW2, but most was saved - and the gallery has a fine collection of art from 18 and 19 centuries. 

Of the artists, I was only familiar with latter period French Impressionist artists Renoir, Gaugin, Manet, Monet and Van Gogh - but I enjoyed most of the 18th century more - perhaps because they were more realistic. 

It is a great collection of paintings and sculptures; and Sunday was especially good given the 1 Eur entry fee (not sure if it is a regular deal); and the audio guide is excellent. 

Nazi Era Events

In South Africa, the statement raised in many political discourses is that "it seems that no one supported Apartheid" - ie a sort of amnesia on the injustices that have been committed in the past. This is common everywhere that has similar cases such as slavery in the Americas or treatment of aboriginals in Australia. In Germany, Nazism is the skeleton in the closet.

Admittedly, the Nazism past is not exactly hidden - memorials such as the Holocaust memorials and other such museums are well maintained and highly effective. But, as you walk around Munich (and for that matter Berlin and other German cities), there often seems to be one sided memorials and commentary. 

Munich's Feldherrnhalle is a good example. Apart from being a monument dedicated to the 30 Year War and the war against Napoleon fought by Bavaria; it is also the scene of the Beer Hall Putsch; where Hitler and his supporters tried to being down the Weimar Republic; and failed. Both police who quelled the riot and supporters of the Nazi parties died that day - but the current plaque on the side commemorates only the fallen policemen; and makes no mention of the circumstances on what drove the Nazi party to its action. It is as if, the Nazi party was a small party - not a well supported nationwide movement. 

There is also a monument to the "shirkers" who protested silently by using a lane behind the Feldherrnhalle to avoid passing the Nazi era memorial plaque (which required a salute) to those who died in the Putsch. 

This is not to say that these memorials are not warranted - they are. But by providing one side of the story, it remains incomplete and seems sometimes like an exercise in collective amnesia.

Glockenspiel

A highlight of the Munich Townhall (Rathaus) at Marienplatz is the Glockenspiel - a carillon comprising of a knights tournament (complete with jousting knights), and a second scene with a traditional dance. Although I have seen it play before, I have never seen the full 10 min show - can't think why not ...

Schloss Hohenschangau

Last time I came to Neuschwanstein, I skipped the residence of the last Bavarian royalty, a short distance away. The castle was initially built in the 1300's but the original castle had been destroyed during the Napoleonic wars. King Maximilian 2 rebuilt the palace according to the original plans; and the last Bavarian royalty, including King Ludwig 2 stayed here. Most of the palace is in its original state - and the paintings on the wall retain their amazing colour without requiring restoration. It's a beautiful palace, and well worth the stop.

Alpsee

The Alp lake, provides a picturesque foreground to the still snow capped Alps, even with the overcast skies.

  

Neuschwanstein Revisited

It's amazing what a difference a guide makes. The guide for the trip this time around had a strong German accent, and a low voice - and the experience was far less engaging than my previous visit.

High End Busking

Just behind Marienplatz (in Munich) I came across this group busking in the small garden. I have seen groups busking before, but never with a piano! 

St. Paul's Church

After the Ancient Greek temples, even the cavernous neo-gothic St. Paul Cathedral in Munich feels a bit ordinary. Located near the fields hosting Oktoberfest, it is currently undergoing restoration, so visitors are not allowed up its main tower. 

Unlike some other churches in Munich,the  inside is quite plain - but the large cavernous hall does have its appeal. The friezes on the walls and columns feel quite amateurish after Greece, lacking the feeling of motion and majesty. But it is quiet and peaceful - and somewhat outside the tourist path (outside Oktoberfest time).

Apocalyptic Symphony

I have always considered Finnish band, Apocalyptica to be at the forefront of pushing the boundaries - for both metal and classical music. Together with the Finnish 25 member Avanti! Chamber Orchestra, they are currently on a short tour in Europe playing a number of original and cover songs from their repertoire. 

Last night they played at Berlin's Tempodrom. The venue itself, shaped like a circus tent (an homage to its more temporary original) is an excellent space for concerts; catering for a good size crowd (of about 4000) but retaining a feeling of intimacy. 

The crowd was varied - from people dressed in suits, to metal heads with piercings and leather clothes. By the end of the concert, everyone was up and jumping, even the old lady next to me (who was literally jumping on her seat). It was a great combination of their major hits, and overall a much better concert than the last performance I attended (when the played first act for Nightwish in 2009). 

It was a great night, and a fitting end to our time in Berlin.  

Tacheles

One of my favorite places in Berlin was Tacheles - a near derelict building in the Mitte district primarily serving as an artist colony. It embodied the weirdness and strangeness present in Berlin, that makes it such an interesting city. 

Sadly, Tacheles is no more; and the entire site is boarded up. Much of the graffiti seems to have been cleaned up/faded away and the entire area seems duller as a result. Perhaps it's a sign that Berlin is growing up, a sign that it is loosing its edge, that it's coming to its senses - since the other "underground" areas are far less accessible. 

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Known colloquialy as the Holocaust memorial, it is certainly the most prominent of the memorials for World War 2 victims in Germany. 

In my previous visits, I have never gone inside the underground memorial centre - and that is really a missing piece in the conceptualisation of the memorial. It is with the context provided that the seemingly endless rows of concrete blocks turn to unmarked, anonymous, numerous, markers for the many that perished. 

It is also strange to see the stark numbers - that the most of the Jews that were murdered were not German, but rather more Polish, Soviet, Hungarian, Czechoslovakian and  Romanian Jews died than German Jews. The operation of persecution seems more of a hunt, than just neighbors turning on each other.

Ultimately, the sadest commentary for me was in the very beginning - a quote from Primo Levi "It happened, therefore it an happen again: this is the core of what we have to say". Given what has happened since - Serbia, Rwanda and what is happening now in Syria - as the human race we haven't learnt anything. As the saying goes, history repeats itself.

Memorial to Homosexuals Persecuted Under Nazism

Is a mouthful, but a poignant reminder not only of the autrocities of the Nazi party, but also of the ongoing persecutions across the world. 

Dali Berlin

Dali Berlin is a permanent exhibition of the works of Salvador Dali, located in Potsdamee Platz. Although the famous paintings such as melting clocks aren't present, it's a sizable collection of paintings, sketches and sculptures. Personally, I liked only a few of them - mostly sculptures - and that is perhaps due to the fact that I am not really a fan of surrealist art. Coupled with no audio guides etc. this is not really an exhibition for someone wanting to learn about Dali or surrealism; but rather an exhibition for the converted.

Schloss Charlottenburg

The only major Berlin attraction I haven't been to before is Schloss Charlottenburg; the palace of Prussian royalty. Originally built by the first queen, Sophie Charlotte, the rooms open to the public are very much dominated by her, even though she didn't live to see the completion. 

Like most palaces of the time, it is lavishly decorated with ornate fixtures, paintings and the queen' speciality - porcelain. It's not an attraction that I would see again, and the political situations entered into by each Prussian ruler (including WW1 by the last) is only mentioned in passing.

East Side Gallery

The East Side Gallery is a large, completely uncontrolled open air gallery on the remains of the Berlin Wall. It is one of the longest stretches of the wall, with work stretching back 20 plus years; although it has also collected graffiti over the years (including 2 groups adding signatures while we were walking). Some of the art seems newer completely - but it is difficult to say.

Some of the art is political, but most of the overt political art seems to have disappeared. But there is still interesting art to be seen.

The Berlin Wall Memorial

In the northern part of central Berlin, where the first parts of the wall was constructed (and pulled down) is the Berlin Wall Memorial. In my last visit I remember the complex showing the various parts of the wall and their significance, but not the gardens and the individual memorial pieces across the site. 

There are off course pieces of the wall, but there are also places of remembrances for those that died on the wall (some had flowers and candles), and it's more of a park with kids playing, people walking dogs etc. 

It's a strange combination, but it is also nice that it is not all somber and reflective.

Ampelmann

One of the few East-German symbols to thrive post reunification are the traffic lights, specifically for pedestrian crossing. Known as the Ampelmann (traffic men), the stop light features a man barring the way, while the go light features a man walking, seemingly with great purpose. 

There are conflicting stories on whether these lights will eventually be replaced by the more mundane symbols of West Germany, but it is certainly one of the enduring symbols of Berlin.

Anhalter Bahnhof

It is quite strange to come across a ruin in the middle of the town - a ruin that still retains some beauty in its design. It's in front of a football field, next to a school; making it even more conspicuous. Anhalter station (which is now underground) seems quite innocent - but a board outside the remaining facade tells a grim tale. 

This was one of the stations that dispatched many to concentration camps; and the board (only in German) gives the numbers dispatched from the station (or is it only the dead?). There is no formal memorial, but this is perhaps more poignant, more appropriate.

The Islamic Art Museum (@Pergamon Museum)

Pergamon Museum is really a collection of museums under one roof. The Pergamon part covers the altar and the gate of Miletus - basically Ancient Greece in modern day Turkey; the Middle East part covers Assyria and Babylon (Gate of Ishtar), there is the currently closed section of Ancient Greek artwork and lastly there is the museum of Islamic Art.

In my previous visit, I didn't spend too much time in this section; and it is certainly worth spending some time here. Chronicling Islamic art through the various "ages" of Islam, the collection is not all about carpets and calligraphy (although that is there). In fact, it is strange to see depictions of animals in Islamic art - as I thought it was forbidden.

The highlight, which I haven't photographed,is the Allepo room - a reconstruction of the interior of a well of merchant's house. Other highlights include the Mshatta Facade from a desert palace in Jordan featuring elaborate carvings of animals on the walls, glassware, ceramics and sculpture - although unlike the Greeks these are far smaller yet more intricate.

Assyria (@Pergamon Museum)

Probably the worst documented and least imposing collection in the Pergamon museum relates to the Assyrians. The collection feels more like a normal museum, and doesn't have any pieces that are just jaw dropping - but it is also a civilization that is not well documented and discussed; so I suppose something is better than nothing.