About Me

I ramble about a number of things - but travel experiences, movies and music feature prominently. See my label cloud for a better idea. All comnments and opinions on this blog are my own, and do not in any way reflect the opinions/position of my employer (past/current/future).

07 September 2007

Baby it's cold outside

So it is the beginning of September, so it should be the beginning of autumn, end of summer. For the last few days, the temperature in Erlangen has been 8 degrees C, around 8:30 am in the morning. In fact, if it was not for the fact that there is no wind, the weather would be the same as Cape Town winter. To be honest, I am not really looking forward to winter ...

As for the title of this post. It is the title of the first part of the Power of Nightmares documentary (BBC, Wikipedia, previous blog post, IMDB), which traces the influence of a famous hit song (academy award winner too) on the rise of both radical Islam and the Neo-Conservatives in the USA.

I blame Carl for influencing the naming of blog posts on song titles. :P

03 September 2007

Goodbye Berlin, Hello Erlangen

While Erlangen is certainly not a one horse town, it is certainly a lot smaller than Berlin. It is big enough to warrant a stop for the Intercity Express Trains, but not big enough to have more than one train station.

For the most part, I really enjoyed Berlin. It is a very lively city, with a lot of things to do. It is one of the best cities I have lived in. I took an Intercity express out of Berlin (one of the very regular Hamburg-Munich trains), and had a very nice trip. The seats are more comfortable and offer more legroom than economy class seats in aeroplanes: and considering the lack of security checks and waiting at the airports, the comparative journey times is only slightly longer.

The first major stop on the way was Leipzig, and I must admit, that the scenery was nothing to look at: like the trip to Hamburg, just rolling fields. Even the towns that we passed seemed to be rather boring. The train was trying to make up for lost time however (it arrived 20 minutes late from Hamburg) and for the most part travelled at 200Km/h. After Leipzig the train slowed down considerably, but the scenery was a lot better: more mountains, forests and rivers, and it was only when we neared Erlangen, that it picked up speed again. I am not sure why it slowed down: could be the track or incline. I was at the front end of the train (well it was actually the back end in Berlin, but the train changed directions at Erlangen) and the drivers compartment was all glass from the inside, so you could see the driver drive the train: very cool, and a very pleasant change from the aeroplane cockpits.

Before I left, Hans-Peter warned me that, except for cafes and restaurants, most things were closed on Sundays. In Berlin, there was no evidence of this, but in Erlangen, it seems many cafes and restaurants are closed too! And while I was expecting a lot higher prices (Berlin is reputed to be one of the cheapest cities in Germany and in fact Europe), my current experience has been the opposite. Time will tell.

The place I am staying has both its good and bad. The good: it is very close to the main town centre, and basically everything is walking distance. The bad: I am trying to work out whether my room in Kopano was bigger than the apartment I am staying in now ... I think Kopano is winning :P

Perfect Score

The perfect score for the bowling game in the Nokia 6020 (and other phones in the same series/year I suppose) is 300. Once you find the perfect way to roll the ball, it is really easy. The downside of this: I have one less thing to do when bored and with nothing other than a cell phone. I just wish real life ten-pin bowling was this easy.

Shit Happens

Just a bit more than 12 hours left in Berlin, and I lock myself out of the apartment. Thanks to Martin, I did get a locksmith, who opened it for a nice sum of 186 Euros. A very expensive mistake, and I certainly hope that I learn from it. Oh well, shit happens.

In a way, it also shows the difference in mentality. I found out that some people leave their spare keys in their postboxes. Would you consider doing something like that in South Africa? I think not. When I met up with Fabian last week, he mentioned the same thing: the constant thinking about crime just does not happen. While there are certain security measures, they are less visible and certainly a lot less intrusive. I am yet to find a house featuring high walls or electric fences; and even electric gates seem to be non existent. But I did see a Group4 Securicor van some weeks ago ... so they must have some business :P

Ka De We



My Lonely Planet guidebook describes Ka De We as the German equivalent of Harrods. At 7 storeys, it certainly matches the size of Harrods, but it does not really have the exclusivity. In reality, it is more like s super version of SA's Woolworths. The first level was more exclusive, featuring mini stores of the luxury brands like Armani and Cartier, but for the remainder, of the store, it was less so.

For me only two things stood out. On the electronics and lifestyle section (level 5) there was a large selection dedicated to model cars, trains and planes. Well, don't know much about the cars and the planes, but the trains section has convinced me that I really need to build myself my own one ... although I can also see that it will take a significant amount of money as well as time to assemble.

But the highlight is really the 6th level - the gourmet floor - reputedly having a spread over the size of two football fields. And quite a large portion being chocolate. It is simply an astounding selection of food and drinks, and mini restaurants that make the food in front of you.

31 August 2007

The Reichstag


The Reichstag is THE symbol of German unity, and in fact the rebuilding (after being bombed to smithereens in WW2) of the Reichstag to be the seat of a future German united government even before the wall was even started! It is also a symbol of a new wave of architecture, comprising of mainly glass, that has taken hold in Berlin.



The famous glass dome, built by UK architect Sir Norman Foster acts like a viewing platform and also hosts a small display of photos illustrating the history of the building. It is interesting to know that there were quite a number of votes that rejected the incorporation of East Germany into West Germany for instance!





There are other buildings around the Reichstag, serving various governmental functions. The Democracy building (serving as the national archive IIRC) is possibly the most striking of them all.


The house of the German Chancellor is also quite interesting, and forms an H, if seen from above.

28 August 2007

Arbeit Macht Frei



Or, loosely translated, "Work shall set you free" - quoted over the entrance of concentration camps. The Sachsenhausen concentration camp, was one of the first, and was built as a model concentration camp; and would end up influencing the structure and organisation of the Nazi concentration camps. Unlike other concentration camps, Sachsenhausen was built very close to major cities, and is in fact in the middle of the town of Oranienburg.

It is one thing to read about concentration camps, but seeing the hard reality on the ground is very sobering. First there is the scale: the large yards and the general size of the camp. Then there is the opposite: the small barracks, both the reality of the designed numbers and the actual numbers. And then there are all the features that made the brutality of the concentration camps famous: the medical wards and Station Z, where prisoners were executed, and then cremated.

But I also have a sense of grudging, I am not sure if this is the right word, wonder, for the design and implementation. The Nazi regime was simply very efficient, in both exploitation and in their brutality. For starters, the design of the camp: arranged in an equilateral triangle, with Tower A, the entrance to the camp in the center of one of the sides. The gate, also one of the highest points in the camp, had machine guns that could reach, theoretically, every point in the camp.

Concentration camps was not just about "purifying" the population. It was also about slavery and it was the prisoners from the camps who are largely responsible for fuelling the growth of the German economy, thus funding the Nazi war machine. And many of the companies that benefited from the concentration camp work force are still around, although I don't think that they still operate their old factories at Oranienburg.


Tower A


Former prisoner baraacks are marked, only a few reconstructed barracks remain


Inside a reconstructed barrack


A Neo-Nazi attack destroyed parts of the reconstructed barracks in the early 1990s


The East Germans built a memorial in the 1960s


The camp has an even darker history than some other concentration camps. The Soviets used this part of the camp (which is incidentally outside the triangle) as part of their own camp, mainly for being minor Nazi figures, but also for being political opponents etc. There is a mass grave behind the camp of prisoners who died while under soviet captivity.


The execution trench ... enough said





Station Z Memorial

Knut and Friends



Knut, for those not in the know, is a baby polar bear, and the highlight of the Berlin Zoo - one of the top zoos in the world. There are actually two zoos in Berlin, something that is not mentioned in most information guides to Berlin. I only found out about it, thanks to Fabian, when I met up with him on Thursday evening.


The city zoo is more compact, and features all the heavy weight attractions: lions, tigers, elephants, polar bears, brown bears, hippos, and many more. Some of the animals are quite good at pulling crowds, like the Panda, whose antics with the bamboo shoots drew large crowds.


A Springbok


Interesting backgrounds ... these are bisons


No idea what the architecture of the Giraffe pen has to do with the giraffes


The gorillas are also a famous feature of the zoo


The lionesses

The Tierpark (the other zoo) is spread over a massive area, and I did not actually go through the whole place because of its size. It probably has more animals (both zoos seem to have the main highlights). However, unlike the city zoo, which has one animal exhibition after another, the tierpark is a more spread out affair, with lots of trees and gardens between the various animal pens. It is a much nicer place to visit, IMO.


Both zoos have polar bears, the Tierpark photos just came out a lot better


A tiger pacing around


The irony of camels in a lush green field, surrounded by water


The park is littered with statues and fountains and places to have picnics etc. Some sculptures are a bit more interesting.


The park has a much larger collection of reptiles. The city zoo does have an aquarium, but it requires an additional ticket.

In the end, I would much rather go see them in the wild. While zoos do offer the luxury of seeing a larger variety of animals, it is just not the same as seeing them in the wild. They somehow seem to loose their magnificence. Which one to go to: if you want to see Knut, there is no option. Otherwise, go to the Tierpark.

Soviet War Memorials



The Soviets suffered one of the highest casualties in WW2, and they were one of the major forces in defeating the Nazis. In many parts of Germany, the soviets built war memorials to commemorate the fallen soldiers. I have been two such memorials in Berlin - the first near the Brandenburg Gate is quite simple, and to the point. It is flanked by two tanks, two artillery canons and features a small museum behind it.

There is much larger soviet war memorial in the former East Berlin, which can only be described in the superlative: grand, massive, majestic. It is a much more complex memorial, and is in fact the burial grounds for about 5000 soviet soldiers killed in the Battle of Berlin. I find it complex, not only because of it size, but also because of the artwork and design. First there is the kneeling woman, probably symbolising the prayers, then the kneeling soldiers at the symbolic gate, and the main feature of a heroic soldier carrying a child. This is a commemoration of fallen heroes, and nothing less. It is highly decorative and very intricately detailed, unlike many other soviet memorials I have seen, notably from the Statue park in Budapest.







But then there are the side panels on either side of the graves, which feature quotes from Stalin and images telling, it seems the story of the war, and how everyone in the country played their part. This is more rough, more common, and in stark contrast to the hero.

22 August 2007

A Weekend in Hamburg

I was originally going to go to Hamburg 2 weeks ago, to meet up with a friend who would also be in Hamburg. Unfortunately, I could not get any accommodation (apparently it is the peak of the backpacker season). The train ticket was valid for a full month, so I planned better, and spent the past weekend in Hamburg.

I was quite lucky to make the train I wanted ... if it was on time, I would have been late by about 2 minutes. I was getting off the local train when the train was scheduled to leave. Luckily for me, the train was running late (by about 10 minutes) and I managed to catch it. The scenery was rather bland - miles of green farm land dotted with a lot of wind power stations. But not much else to see.


I stayed at the Instant Sleep Hostel, which is in a convenient location to move around Hamburg. Paraphrasing the Lonely Planet guide, it is a colourful hostel, but with very sparse facilities. I stayed in the hall of dreams, a 25 bed dorm! Have no complaints of the actual hostel really, although there was no such thing as an atmosphere. But then, I needed a bed to sleep in, and did not intend to hang out in the hostel.

Hamburg is really known for three things: its massive harbour, the airbus factory and Reeperbahn. Reeperbahn is the red light district, even larger than Amsterdam. It is reputedly a lot tamer (I need to investigate this), full of neon lights and at times, quite amusing (the reaction of people walking through, the ads etc).


As for the harbour, you only really understand the scale and size of it if you take a river cruise (or in my case, take the public ferries). The size of the ships is simply staggering, and the harbour is quite busy.


I did not see the Airbus factory, but it does seem that not everyone is impressed with the new plane.



Hamburg was an independent state for a long time, and it was quite a rich state at that. The city hall's impressive architecture is testament to this. I was there too early in the morning, and thus could not go inside.


St. Nikolai Church was one of the largest churches before WW2, and was then bombed. The spire is more or less all that remains, and is now an anti-war memorial. Again it was too early in the morning, so everything was closed. I did go up the tower of St. Michaelis Church though (it opens earlier than the others) and it offers a fantastic view of Hamburg, but is not as interesting.


For me, there were actually only two highlights on my trip: the Olympic Rolercoaster at the Hamburger Dom (a fun fair), and the Fish Market. I haven't been on many roller coasters, but The Olympic Roller Coaster has been by far the best. The 5 rings are complete loops and it is an amazing ride. The photo is from the tower of St. Michaelis; I did not actually take photos of either the Hamburger Dom or Reeperbahn.



The fish market is an open air market, and not much fish gets sold anymore. Even though I don't understand German, it is the antics of the stall keepers that is really impressive. Many put on a real show, in order to sell their wares, and there are some real bargains to be had; such as the full basket of fruit and vegetable (including the basket) for 10 Euros, to trees and plants for the garden.

Hamburg is also well known for its live music scene, especially for being the "birthplace" of the Beatles phenomenon. Just my luck: there are two music festivals starting this coming weekend, and there was one the weekend before. But this past weekend, there were only a few acts in bars and the like, and all the ones I found tended to be solo guitar acts, so I just kept looking (without much luck).

To be honest, there is nothing special about Hamburg. But if you do go, make sure you get up early on Sunday morning to go to the Fish Market.

17 August 2007

Music: Sister Chain & Brother John and Daniel Colletti

One of the Berlin residents from the Autosport Forums alerted me to a gig in one of the many cafes+bar+clubs in Berlin. So, together with Martin, I decided to go check it out. Intersoup can be described as an Asian cafe+bar, but with a very limited menu (comprising of soups and dumplings). However, the food was very good!

The opening act was a solo Goth guitarist, Daniel Colletti. The lyrics were in German, so can't really comment - but Martin said that it was quite depressing. Well, it was goth music ... Musically, rather unimpressive, but it was interesting to hear live music in a strange language.

The "star act" was a duo that describe their music as Victorian rock, and was described by the venue's flyer as "experimental rock". The duo, an Englishman playing bass or electric guitar, and a woman (who could speak German, not sure if she is German) who was the main vocalist. It was certainly very interesting music, and the lyrics were very cool - some were funny, some were serious ... but all very interesting. I think the closest mainstream act I can think off that they could resemble, would be Björk. Martin was so impressed, that he bought their EP!

Overall, it was a good night of food and music!

16 August 2007

Software Liability

The recent furore about the quality of Chinese made toys has brought an interesting subject to light: product liability. In the most recent case, Mattel, the world’s largest toy maker has recalled entire product lines because of two separate issues. The biggest issue (happened twice in two weeks), was the case of the use of lead based paint. As the Wikipedia article on lead explains, long term exposure to lead could lead to damage to the nervous system and other problems; and thus the use of lead based paint has been discontinued in most industrial nations. Thus this issue of product liability has arisen out of the manufacturing process. The second issue, was the recall of certain magnetic toys, which are dangerous if swallowed, and despite certain news reports, it is not really the fault of the Chinese manufacturers. Rather, it is a design problem – the toy designers designed a faulty product, and these toys are being recalled so that they can be fixed.

This is my round about way to get to the topic – software liability. Unlike every other product in the world, software development houses (the vendors) are effectively immune from product liability. One of the biggest factors behind security issues in computer systems are because products are not designed and developed (manufactured) correctly – leading to a multitude of security problems. But unlike Mattel, vendors do not have to recall software because of bad design or development. In fact, while many vendors do provide patches, there is no obligation for them to do so (well it does make business sense for them to do so, most of the time).

There have been many, most notably Bruce Schneier, who have argued that product liability must also extend to software, and it is the only way to get more reliable, secure software. His basic argument is, at the moment, there is currently no incentive for a vendor to make secure software; and instead, it is the end user who is forced to spend extra money in an attempt to make his computer more secure through the use of firewalls, anti virus software etc. Not surprisingly, majority of vendors are opposed to software liability. They contend that software is too complex, and that there will always be bugs. Furthermore, it is not necessarily just the software that is at fault, but the combination of software applications that are used that is at fault.

In the recent report (pdf) by the Science and Technology Committee of the UK’s House of Lords (really good read), Prof. Mark Handley from University College London, sums it up very well:
“If your PC, for example, gets compromised at the moment there is no real liability for the software vendors or the person who sold them the PC or anything else. The question then is: did the person who sold you that software or the person who wrote that software or whatever actually do the best job industry knows how to do in writing that software? If they did then I really do not think they should be liable, but if they did not then I think some liability ought to be there.”


And that is exactly how product liability in other disciplines work: if a bridge falls down, it is only the fault of the construction company if they did not follow accepted standard practices like taking shortcuts or building the bridge using poor quality materials. Likewise, it is the designer's fault if they build a bridge in an area known for earthquakes without considering earthquakes in their design. And it is the same reason, Mattel is recalling some magnetic toys – because the designers did not consider what would happen if children swallowed those magnets.

Software should be the same. There needs to be some degree of accountability. During the design phase considerations such as security , reliability, stability must be taken into account. And there are tools out there to conduct rigorous testing of software design: for example (citing a tool that I know very well), Petri nets can be used to prove whether a process is bounded or not – and unbounded processes provide a good indication that the process could experience buffer overflows or similar issues during implementation.

Similarly, development also needs to have some degree of accountability. Buffer overflows caused because there are no checks on whether the input is of a correct size or not is not usually a fault of the designer. It is the fault of the programmers who did not bother to check for it, and the QA people because they forgot to test for it. Yes, programming is still a human process, and unlike robotic assembly lines, cannot be relied upon to provide perfect results, all the time. But there should be a reasonable grounding of all programmers to deliver a certain level of quality. It’s the least that should be expected.

Off course, this does not mean that patches will not be required. But, hopefully, patches will be used to fix vulnerabilities and bugs that are beyond the basic assurances. And this would still mean that users have to take care and maintain their computers and software – just like every other product. And just like every other product, the vendors should inform the users of the correct way to use and maintain software. The issue of a “computer driving license” has often been discussed … maybe it is high time, that it is actually discussed seriously.

There is off course the case of open source. In open source software, there is often no one to sue (for liability). But I think Bruce Schneier provides the perfect middle ground: open source software that is freely distributed, installed and maintained by the user (through help from online communities) should not offer any liability protection; after all the software cost nothing to begin with. However, vendors that package and support open source software (such as Red Hat), should be liable. In the end it is about assurance: from a vendor like Red Hat you are getting assurance that a specific set of open source products that is secure and stable.

I think it is inevitable that software liability will happen; it is just a matter of when. In their recommendations, the Science and Technology Committee of the UK’s House of Lords state:
“We therefore recommend that the Government explore, at European level, the introduction of the principle of vendor liability within the IT industry. In the short term we recommend that such liability should be imposed on vendors (that is, software and hardware manufacturers), notwithstanding end user licensing agreements, circumstances where negligence can be demonstrated. In the longer term, as the industry matures, a comprehensive framework of vendor liability and consumer protection should be introduced.”

14 August 2007

Potsdam

Potsdam is a town near Berlin, the capital of the Brandenburg state, and was the summer residence of the Prussian royalty. The major tourist attractions of Potsdam, are the royal palaces and their grounds and gardens; now a UNESCO heritage site. Exploring Potsdam on your own is difficult: access into many of the palaces is available only through guided tours (which are off course, mainly, if not all, in German). For this reason, my Lonely Planet guide suggested that the palaces are best explored through tour companies, and I joined Brewer's Tours for the third time, now for their Potsdam tour.

The tour was led by Terry Brewer, the founder of the tour company. He once worked for the Allies, in Berlin, during the partition, and for the British Navy for a number of years, before "retiring" to Berlin. Tour guides make the tour, and he was a brilliant host, and his stories, his humour, and most of all, his knowledge, made the tour worth every Euro cent! The tour party was quite impressive too; apart from me, there were two Greek housewives visiting their daughters studying in Berlin, two physists working in Berlin (one from Italy, the other from Morocco) and an American movie producer, who is about to wrap up her first movie (documentary really) about tour guides in Berlin!

A point about the weather (see previous post) - it was forcasted to be sunny - even in the morning on the subway station. It drizzled for most of the day, so many of the outside shots were just not as spectacular as they should be. But no purple skies! :P


The palaces are strictly controlled, and every one has to wear these funny slippers inside most of the palaces. The slipers would make it lots of fun to slide in the marble halls ... and if it wasn't for the many minders, I think we would have had some competitions! You are also not allowed to take photos, so no views from the inside.


From Berlin, we caught a train to Potsdam (considered in the C zone in the Berlin transport system). We got off at Sancoussi Gardens station, and then started off at the New Palace, built by Frederick the Great in the 1760s. There are some spectacular rooms inside, especially the jeweled great hall, which is decorated with crystals and gems, and the top of Mount Kilimanjaro. The lavish lifestyle of royalty is so well demonstrated, and so spectacular.


I know it is Germany, and not prudish England, but the number of statues and paintings around the various palaces that have sexual overtones (some going further than overtones) is quite amazing. The swinging sixties could be considered prudish at times ... Oh yes, on this topic, one must mention about the bedrooms of the princes, which were adorned with paintings of naked women (renaissance art off course), and not forget the countless statues of naked men. Equality existed back then, I suppose.


The Orangery Palace, built in the 1850's was built to serve as a part greenhouse, part retreat. It has good views from the top, but it is the "fake" art gallery, full of Raphael copies that is really impressive. And it was open to the public back then too!


Sanssouci Palace, is the main attraction. However, the queues are massive (even on the rainy day, there was a 3 hour waiting time), and we just did not go in. It was not even part of the day pass for the palaces for that reason. But I think I am "palaced" out for now, even for Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin.


Unlike the Orangery Palace, the Picture Gallery, hosts real paintings - about 100 of them. It was possibly the world's first public gallery, and was built in 1763. The paintings are amazing, and so is the decorations of the gallery roof, doors and walls ... they just don't make galleries like these anymore.

The Marble Palace, under heavy restoration was the last stop for the day. The really interesting item in the entire palace is an old "secretary" desk - complete with a huge number of hidden cabinets; which are opened by hidden buttons, turning the key twice, rotating various columns (three sides have mirrors or paintings, the last show drawers). It is just absolutely amazing.


The Cecilienhof is the newest palace, and is famous for the location of the Potsdam Conference in 1945; where Germany was carved up between the victors of WW 2. It was here that US President Truman announced the development of the Atom bomb, and is also possibly the place where Truman signed the authorisation to drop the Atomic bomb on Hiroshima and Nagasaki ... possibly because it has yet to be revealed whether Truman signed the treaty in the White House before coming over to Potsdam. For modern Germany, it is possibly the most important palace of the lot.

Potsdam is a fascinating town, and to do real justice to it, I would need at least 5 or 6 days; time I do not have :( After the tour, most of the tour party (including Terry) went out to a pizza place in Berlin; referred to as "Anarchist Pizza" by the physicists. Very impressive pizzas (I had the one with Horse ham .. couldn't resist ...) and very funky location, complete with posters, graffiti, and clocks showing time in the various communist capitals of the world such as Beijing, Havana and Ho Chi Minh City. It was a great day really.