Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu was the reason I decided to come to Peru. I first came across it on a movie, and I have been facinated by both Machu Picchu and Inca history ever since. Because it was only "discovered" by the west in 1911, it is one of the best preserved Inca cities. High up in the mountains, it is a showcase of civil engineering, that I think many modern engineering works would be hard pressed to match.

Getting There

There are a number of ways to get to Machu Picchu. The best known is the Inca trail - a four day trek following the original Inca highway from Ollantaytambo (a town about 80Km from Cusco) to Machu Picchu. The trail is highly regulated, but I did manage to find a spot leaving on 23 Dec. However, that would have left me no time to acclimatise to the altitude and considering my current fitness levels (i.e. poor), I decided against it. After panting up and down to Saqsaywaman, I am glad I did not do the trek.

The tourist option to get there is to catch the expensive train (about 73 US Dollars return ticket), then a bus to the entrance. The hostel I am staying at got me a good deal for this option which included a full guided tour. Yes, it was well worth the money spent, but the train was certainly not worth 73 US dollars. While part of the journey was scenic, it was highly uncomfortable, and I think it is a complete rip off.

There is a cheaper option of getting to Machu Picchu, which involves a lot of walking and taking buses at 3 am and an overnight stay at Aguas Calientes (the town at the bottom of the mountain, which is the train stop). I did consider this option, but I could not find cheap accommodation at Aguas Calientes to make this option worth the pain ...

The Ruins

Machu Picchu is spectacular. Surrounded by mountains and spectacular views of the valley below, it is worth coming here for the views alone. Because the Incas did not have any written language, a lot of mystery remains. It was built in the mid 1400's and took about 70 odd years to get to the current state, and then the city was abandoned. The city remained incomplete, and it has been preserved pretty much as it was left. While it is clear that the city held very deep religious significance, the exact purpose of the city remains unclear.

One of the most impressive aspects of the city is its alignment to the sun. On the two solstices (June 21 and Dec 22) the sun rays (during sunrise) fall exactly through the windows of the Temple of the Sun and it is reputed to be a spectacular sight. There are other astronomical markers including a representation of the Southern Cross which creates an accurate mapping of North, South, East and West.

Personally, what I found most impressive were the terraces. The terraces were built specifically to support the town, and prevent it from sliding down the mountain. Furthermore, it provides excellent drainage and allows all the water to drain away without affecting the foundations of the city. As with other Inca constructions, there is no mortar used in the construction of the town and the town has survived earthquakes, heavy rain, was overgrown with tropical forest (and about 30% of the forest has yet to be cleared) and now a steady stream of tourists.

Returning Again

I would very much like to return to Machu Picchu. Next time, I would definitely do the classic Inca trail and then the other less traveled Inca trails around Aguas Calientes. I am thinking of a trek that would end on either 22 Dec 2008 or 21 June 2009. If anyone is interested, drop me a mail ...