Easily the largest town in the Cirques, Cilaos has an amazing setting amongst the mountains. While it is very tourist friendly - there are seemingly BnBs and hotels on every street; it still has a rural town feel to it. Thus, many shops end up closing before the posted 12:30 - 14:30 lunch break, and almost nothing was open on New Year's day.
It also has a strange mix of old, new and the decrepit - the church is an landmark, the old hotel (Hotel des Thermas) in the background is also a landmark - but now known more because it has been abandoned for so long, and not because it is a 4/5 star hotel with gorgeous views, and the new centre showcasing arts and crafts (and yet most seems to be recycled tourist traps). This also extends to the small lake - water seems dirty, filled with fish and most of the places seemingly closed/partially operational.
So come for the views, and the hikes - but don't expect the traditional resort town.
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