Hippodrome

Situated outside the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, it was used by the Byzantines for horse racing; but is now just a large plaza. Not much remains of the hippodrome itself except for a few columns, most notably an Egyptian Obelisk. A more recent fountain, donated by German emperor Kaiser Willem II in the early 1900's provides a very elaborate contrast to the simplicity of the obelisks.

Aya (Hagia) Sophia

This is really the reason I wanted to come to Istanbul - I had read a lot about the Hagia Sophia; that it was once the main church of the Roman Empire, which then got converted to a mosque by the Ottomans - but they still preserved much of the church.

The outside is not as impressive as the inside with its amazing murals, mosaics and the amazingly decorated dome. It's probably one of the few places on earth where statements praising both Jesus and Allah are next to each other, in almost perfect harmony.

There is quite a lot of restoration work underway, but that doesn't detract from the amazing views of the interior.

The tombs at Aya Sophia

The ottoman emperors created a number of tombs next to the Aya Sophia, which are mostly notable for their ceramic decorations. It's free entry, and a quick visit.

Basilica Cistern

I first learnt about Emperor Justinian (of the Eastern Roman Empire) during my PhD work - specifically on his legal statutes that became the basis for codified Roman law. He was also responsible for many of the Byzantinian structures that have survived in Istanbul - the two most prominent examples being the Aya (Hagia) Sophia and the Basilica Cistern.

The cistern is a massive water storage tank, that supplied drinkin water to this part of Istanbul for many years, until the Ottomans built their own running water system. 

The soft lighting, the fishes am te two Medusa heads, apparently transported from elsewhere, makes this into an interesting historical attraction.

Lost in the streets of Sultanahmet

We are staying in a small hotel steps away from the Aya Sophia, but the first thing I managed, after alighting from the tram was to get lost in the alleyways. Unlike Turkish Airlines, people are very friendly, and even if they didn't know the hotel, or even know English, they offered to help. 

Sultanahmet feels like a cleaner version of India; same throngs of people, same feel of the alleyways, some stray dogs and cats; but far cleaner. There is a feeling of life that seemed to be missing from Berlin.

Turkish Airlines

Turkish Airlines is trying to promote itself up to as a competitor of Emirates and the other gulf airlines. It has a far more aggressive marketing campaign (staring Messi and Kobe, and previously staring George Clooney), and has one of the largey route networks.

So it's a pity that its service is so bad. We have taken three flights so far, and the service in each has been far below the levels of the Gulf competitors. Most of the attendants seemed surly and without any smiles - be it talking in Turkish or in English. Their food cart doesn't seem to have the items listed on the menu - whether we were served first or later. In fact, during one drink service they ran out - said they would be back, and never returned (this was 90 mins before the flight landed). 

So, despite the ads; they have a long way to go.

Apocalyptic Symphony

I have always considered Finnish band, Apocalyptica to be at the forefront of pushing the boundaries - for both metal and classical music. Together with the Finnish 25 member Avanti! Chamber Orchestra, they are currently on a short tour in Europe playing a number of original and cover songs from their repertoire. 

Last night they played at Berlin's Tempodrom. The venue itself, shaped like a circus tent (an homage to its more temporary original) is an excellent space for concerts; catering for a good size crowd (of about 4000) but retaining a feeling of intimacy. 

The crowd was varied - from people dressed in suits, to metal heads with piercings and leather clothes. By the end of the concert, everyone was up and jumping, even the old lady next to me (who was literally jumping on her seat). It was a great combination of their major hits, and overall a much better concert than the last performance I attended (when the played first act for Nightwish in 2009). 

It was a great night, and a fitting end to our time in Berlin.  

Tacheles

One of my favorite places in Berlin was Tacheles - a near derelict building in the Mitte district primarily serving as an artist colony. It embodied the weirdness and strangeness present in Berlin, that makes it such an interesting city. 

Sadly, Tacheles is no more; and the entire site is boarded up. Much of the graffiti seems to have been cleaned up/faded away and the entire area seems duller as a result. Perhaps it's a sign that Berlin is growing up, a sign that it is loosing its edge, that it's coming to its senses - since the other "underground" areas are far less accessible. 

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

Known colloquialy as the Holocaust memorial, it is certainly the most prominent of the memorials for World War 2 victims in Germany. 

In my previous visits, I have never gone inside the underground memorial centre - and that is really a missing piece in the conceptualisation of the memorial. It is with the context provided that the seemingly endless rows of concrete blocks turn to unmarked, anonymous, numerous, markers for the many that perished. 

It is also strange to see the stark numbers - that the most of the Jews that were murdered were not German, but rather more Polish, Soviet, Hungarian, Czechoslovakian and  Romanian Jews died than German Jews. The operation of persecution seems more of a hunt, than just neighbors turning on each other.

Ultimately, the sadest commentary for me was in the very beginning - a quote from Primo Levi "It happened, therefore it an happen again: this is the core of what we have to say". Given what has happened since - Serbia, Rwanda and what is happening now in Syria - as the human race we haven't learnt anything. As the saying goes, history repeats itself.

Memorial to Homosexuals Persecuted Under Nazism

Is a mouthful, but a poignant reminder not only of the autrocities of the Nazi party, but also of the ongoing persecutions across the world. 

Dali Berlin

Dali Berlin is a permanent exhibition of the works of Salvador Dali, located in Potsdamee Platz. Although the famous paintings such as melting clocks aren't present, it's a sizable collection of paintings, sketches and sculptures. Personally, I liked only a few of them - mostly sculptures - and that is perhaps due to the fact that I am not really a fan of surrealist art. Coupled with no audio guides etc. this is not really an exhibition for someone wanting to learn about Dali or surrealism; but rather an exhibition for the converted.

Schloss Charlottenburg

The only major Berlin attraction I haven't been to before is Schloss Charlottenburg; the palace of Prussian royalty. Originally built by the first queen, Sophie Charlotte, the rooms open to the public are very much dominated by her, even though she didn't live to see the completion. 

Like most palaces of the time, it is lavishly decorated with ornate fixtures, paintings and the queen' speciality - porcelain. It's not an attraction that I would see again, and the political situations entered into by each Prussian ruler (including WW1 by the last) is only mentioned in passing.

East Side Gallery

The East Side Gallery is a large, completely uncontrolled open air gallery on the remains of the Berlin Wall. It is one of the longest stretches of the wall, with work stretching back 20 plus years; although it has also collected graffiti over the years (including 2 groups adding signatures while we were walking). Some of the art seems newer completely - but it is difficult to say.

Some of the art is political, but most of the overt political art seems to have disappeared. But there is still interesting art to be seen.

The Berlin Wall Memorial

In the northern part of central Berlin, where the first parts of the wall was constructed (and pulled down) is the Berlin Wall Memorial. In my last visit I remember the complex showing the various parts of the wall and their significance, but not the gardens and the individual memorial pieces across the site. 

There are off course pieces of the wall, but there are also places of remembrances for those that died on the wall (some had flowers and candles), and it's more of a park with kids playing, people walking dogs etc. 

It's a strange combination, but it is also nice that it is not all somber and reflective.

Ampelmann

One of the few East-German symbols to thrive post reunification are the traffic lights, specifically for pedestrian crossing. Known as the Ampelmann (traffic men), the stop light features a man barring the way, while the go light features a man walking, seemingly with great purpose. 

There are conflicting stories on whether these lights will eventually be replaced by the more mundane symbols of West Germany, but it is certainly one of the enduring symbols of Berlin.

Anhalter Bahnhof

It is quite strange to come across a ruin in the middle of the town - a ruin that still retains some beauty in its design. It's in front of a football field, next to a school; making it even more conspicuous. Anhalter station (which is now underground) seems quite innocent - but a board outside the remaining facade tells a grim tale. 

This was one of the stations that dispatched many to concentration camps; and the board (only in German) gives the numbers dispatched from the station (or is it only the dead?). There is no formal memorial, but this is perhaps more poignant, more appropriate.

The Islamic Art Museum (@Pergamon Museum)

Pergamon Museum is really a collection of museums under one roof. The Pergamon part covers the altar and the gate of Miletus - basically Ancient Greece in modern day Turkey; the Middle East part covers Assyria and Babylon (Gate of Ishtar), there is the currently closed section of Ancient Greek artwork and lastly there is the museum of Islamic Art.

In my previous visit, I didn't spend too much time in this section; and it is certainly worth spending some time here. Chronicling Islamic art through the various "ages" of Islam, the collection is not all about carpets and calligraphy (although that is there). In fact, it is strange to see depictions of animals in Islamic art - as I thought it was forbidden.

The highlight, which I haven't photographed,is the Allepo room - a reconstruction of the interior of a well of merchant's house. Other highlights include the Mshatta Facade from a desert palace in Jordan featuring elaborate carvings of animals on the walls, glassware, ceramics and sculpture - although unlike the Greeks these are far smaller yet more intricate.

Assyria (@Pergamon Museum)

Probably the worst documented and least imposing collection in the Pergamon museum relates to the Assyrians. The collection feels more like a normal museum, and doesn't have any pieces that are just jaw dropping - but it is also a civilization that is not well documented and discussed; so I suppose something is better than nothing.

Berlin's Erotik Museum

Be it sex shops, or prostitution, Germany, and especially Berlin, is quite open about sex. I have been to the Berlin Erotik Museum before (part of a walking tour if I recall); and it really hasn't changed much in between. Located above a Beate Uhse  sex shop near the Zoological Gardens station, it features a floor of various art work over the ages - a lot of Japanese and Chinese art across a number of centuries; and turn of 1900 art from Europe - sex toys and probably the most interesting; a collection of aphrodisiacs. It is quite amazing what humans consider to be aphrodisiacs. It seems anything phallic shaped goes - from the mundane to the disgusting (preserved snakes, snake blood etc). 

The museum is not as good as I remember it, nor is it as interesting as the ones in New York or Amsterdam - but it is still a more obscure cultural experience.

Pergamon Altar (@Pergamon Museum)

The Pergamon Altar was the reason to come to Berlin - later in this trip I plan to go to Pergamon itself, and that was motivated from my memories of the altar at the Pergamon Museum. It is really one of the most imposing sights in any museum. Excavated in modern day Turkey, assembled and restored in Germany; it is a Classical Greek temple with an amazing frieze telling an epic battle between gods and monsters. Unfortunately most of the frieze is missing/damaged but the scale and the detail of what is remaining is jaw-dropping none the less. It is definitely one of the must see museums in the world.

Miletus (@Pergamon Museum)

Last time I was at Pergamon Museum, this section was almost completely under refurbishment. Consequently, I did not appreciate the true scale of this section of the Pergamon Museum. Built of marble, the exhibition includes the market gate, sections from various temples and an impressive mosaic floor from a private house (which takes interior decorating to new heights). 

Gate of Ishtar (@Pergamon Museum)

Last time I went to Pergamon Museum, the Gate of Ishtar was under refurbishment; so it was great to see the full scale of the gate without scaffolding. Erected by King Nebuchadnezzar II in Babylon, this is actually the smaller gate; but imposing none the less. The refurbishment gives a better idea of the animals adorning the walls, and the bright blue and gold really stands out.

There is an inscription on the side on the dedication of the gate by King Nebuchadnezzar, which talks of having a monument that is appreciated by all of mankind. Unfortunately, they would need to get to Berlin and wait in the log lines to get in; but at least it is still there to awe mankind.

Alte Nationalgalarie

Part of the Museuminsel complex in Berlin, the Alte Nationalgalarie hosts a large art collection, from mainly Germany and Austria. I hadn't been inside before, and the collection of marble sculptures is particularly impressive.